Mast Progress
The mast is receiving some finishing hardware.
The masthead light is installed on the mast via the masthead plate. I was not able to come up with a more elegant wiring arrangement. The connection between the yellow light lead and the white mast lead is protected by shrink tubing and a strain relieving cable tie through the masthead plate. This arrangement should provide a reliable connections in a more readily serviceable location with no comfort given to aesthetics.
As mentioned in the last episode, the mast lead weight is held by clamping against angled surfaces on the masthead plate and cut into the masthead exit port. This arrangement seems to be effective.
Two halyard blocks are installed in the aft mast crane. These blocks receive lines that attach to the gaff spar at the mainsail head. These lines raise and lower the mainsail as well as control the gaff's throat and peak positions. The advent of high strength synthetic lines has revised the old practice of lashing on blocks rather than using metal fixings.
The masthead plate extends aft to provide mounting spaces for a possible future masthead fly and/or a VHF radio antenna.
New Skills
No dimensions are given for the shroud lengths. I checked my shroud length math two different ways to gain assurance my splicing efforts would result in serviceable components. The ultimate test remains.
Dyneema shrouds have been constructed to support the mast. YouTube provided instruction on how to make locking brummel eye splices which I sometimes need to review in spite of my practice. It also covered whipping a line to secure a sleeve over another line or core. Antishafe sleeves were whipped to the longer shroud loop sections.
Each shroud is composed of two parts. The shorter, lower portion's large loop anchors to the hull's shear. The longer, upper portion's large loop anchors around the masthead. The thimbled shroud ends are joined by multiple passes of a smaller line ceased between the thimbles. This arrangement is known as dead eyes. It permits adjustment of the mast rake.
Above is an image of the mast crossbeam underside's dolphin striker. This feature resists the mast compressive load on the crossbeam. The dead eyes permit tension adjustment on the dolphin striker. More research might be needed on ceasing knots.
The longer shrouds loop around the masthead and lead aft as shown above. The forestay attaches to the loop joined by a clevis. The roller furling headsail requires the use of an internal stainless steel cable forestay. More about the forestay in a future episode.
Creature Comforts
I've began the process of accumulating items that will make life onboard more comfortable. Two 12 volt electric fans were purchased, one for each hull. These fans plug into outlets in the hulls as well as outlets in the cockpit. The fans are equipped with suction cup mounts that will be replaced with a more versatile and reliable spring loaded clamp mounts. The clamp mount will clip the fan onto bulkheads or other interior/exterior features for the best cooling effect. The low current draw should permit these fans to run throughout hotter nights.
I've also began to consider sleeping equipment like cots and mattresses. It looks like up to three cots could be accommodated in the cockpit (a cockpit tent makes for a comfortable possible future arrangement). Initially, a backpacker's sleeping pad could be the ticket. These pads fold up into small bricks to store away. I've slept in the boat without pads, but I'm not sure everyone could. A fold up camping table could be a useful addition. Any suggestions would be welcome.
Above is one iteration that used a hook to support the motor shaft underside as pressure is applied to the offset lever arm. There is limited space in the motor well so the freely moving hook is tricky to put in position for use. The hook can only be placed around the shaft when on the outboard side so the hook and the removable offset lever arm must be reconfigured when operating on the second motor.
The simplified solution uses a clamp around each motor shaft. A hook on the lever arm engages a clamp through bolt to lift and lower the motor.
The taped up hook projects from the lever arm end. A long slot cut into the lever arm end receives the 1/8" stainless steel, epoxy slathered, hook plate. Two holes are drilled through the lever arm and steel plate to receive 1/4" pins that take the load applied to the hook. This lever arm end is sheathed in carbon fiber for a hopefully long service life.
The motor shaft clamps have a teardrop shape to match the shaft profile. A perfect fit around the shaft was achieved by wrapping the shaft in cellophane tape to prevent epoxy adhesion. The clamp mating surface was coated with thicken epoxy before allowing to cure while clamped around the protected motor shaft.
Here we have a look down into the starboard motor well. To the right is the lever arm engaged with the motor shaft clamp. Once the lever is engaged with the clamp, the lever arm is unlikely to fall into the water as with earlier iterations. The motor can now be lifted out of the water by pressure applied to the lever arm. I resisted cutting a slot in well covering for a long time, but the next image will show the need to accomodate an offset lever arm.
Here the motor is latched in the up position. The offset lever arm to clears the locker combing and the mast crossbeam. Note the gap between the shaft clamp end to the right. This gap allows the lever arm hook to pass under the clamp through bolt. This motor lowering and raising arrangement is quick and easy to use as long desired.
Long Standing Problem
The electric outboard motors normally have the batteries mounted on the motor shaft head. The battery weight counters the submerged motor weight so that it is easy to raise and lower the motors. There is not room to for the battery on the motor shaft head when located under the cockpit seats so the batteries are mounted beside the motor shaft pivot axis. Without the battery counter weight it is difficult to raise or lower the motors in a controlled or easy manner. Several iterations of motor lifting tools were necessary to arrive at something that was simple and easy to use.
Above is one iteration that used a hook to support the motor shaft underside as pressure is applied to the offset lever arm. There is limited space in the motor well so the freely moving hook is tricky to put in position for use. The hook can only be placed around the shaft when on the outboard side so the hook and the removable offset lever arm must be reconfigured when operating on the second motor.
Two lever arms configured for starboard and port with fixed hooks might have been a solution, but then there is more stuff to carry around. The search for a better solution must continue.
The simplified solution uses a clamp around each motor shaft. A hook on the lever arm engages a clamp through bolt to lift and lower the motor.
The taped up hook projects from the lever arm end. A long slot cut into the lever arm end receives the 1/8" stainless steel, epoxy slathered, hook plate. Two holes are drilled through the lever arm and steel plate to receive 1/4" pins that take the load applied to the hook. This lever arm end is sheathed in carbon fiber for a hopefully long service life.
The motor shaft clamps have a teardrop shape to match the shaft profile. A perfect fit around the shaft was achieved by wrapping the shaft in cellophane tape to prevent epoxy adhesion. The clamp mating surface was coated with thicken epoxy before allowing to cure while clamped around the protected motor shaft.
The clamps are sheathed in fiberglass to resist water intrusion.
Here we have a look down into the starboard motor well. To the right is the lever arm engaged with the motor shaft clamp. Once the lever is engaged with the clamp, the lever arm is unlikely to fall into the water as with earlier iterations. The motor can now be lifted out of the water by pressure applied to the lever arm. I resisted cutting a slot in well covering for a long time, but the next image will show the need to accomodate an offset lever arm.
Here the motor is latched in the up position. The offset lever arm to clears the locker combing and the mast crossbeam. Note the gap between the shaft clamp end to the right. This gap allows the lever arm hook to pass under the clamp through bolt. This motor lowering and raising arrangement is quick and easy to use as long desired.
